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16-03-2010

Some things not even an earthquake can change

Driving back to Santiago from southern Chile I stopped in the town of San Fernando, some 120 kilometers (75 miles) south of the capital, for a badly needed haircut. There was little traffic on the highway and I was running ahead of schedule, so I figured that a quick detour would do no harm.

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10-03-2010

Baghdad Diary: Dipping my finger in Iraqi electoral ink

One of my enduring images of Iraqis voting in last weekend's elections is of people holding up their purple ink-stained index fingers to indicate they had cast their ballot. It's an image that has graced newspaper front pages the world over.

While covering the country's elections from the Kurdish city of Sulaimaniyah, I decided I wanted my own such momento of having been there.

So, when sufficient quotes had been gathered and my stories had been filed to the bureau in Baghdad, I asked my interpreter colleague to approach election officials at a polling station to see if it would be ok to dip my finger in the purple ink.

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03-03-2010

Braving the bare facts

I read Monday's weather forecast with a mounting sense of trepidation: a cold change and showers to herald the first day of autumn in Sydney.

Nothing unusual about it, but I could barely sleep a wink, paranoid I would sleep through my 3.15am alarm and worse still, that it would be raining when I woke. Standing naked on the steps of the Opera House would be one thing; doing it in cold drizzle entirely another.

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01-03-2010

Mistaken identity can be fatal in Afghanistan

It was probably his high, unbroken voice that saved him. The US soldiers were on foot, hunting across the fields for a suspected IED bomber.

The suspect was thought to be wearing all black, but another person wearing a white hat and long brown shirt was spotted digging a hole in the road.

The US soldiers fired shots up the valley towards him, then then set off in pursuit. With guns at the ready, they were ready for action.

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Through the lens of a camera: the extremes of Latin America

Talk about contrasts. Just over a week ago, the images being captured in my camera lenses were those of beautiful Brazilians gyrating and smiling in Rio's spectacular and festive Carnival parades. Now, the pictures I am taking are those of crumpled, crippled Haiti -- a land of earthquake trauma and devastation.

From the 'Greatest Party on Earth' to the scene of one of the worst disasters on record, the difference is stark.

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25-02-2010

Journalism lessons from television's 'Lou Grant'

It was as if the fictional TV reporter Joe Rossi saw the protesters, not me.

Driving back to the AFP bureau I spotted two women sitting with placards in the driveway of a court building. They were complaining about a land dispute, and it was the first protest of its kind that I had seen during nearly a year in Vietnam.

I became obsessed with the need to talk to them, to find out why they were there. That's what Rossi would do.

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23-02-2010

'Dead' Philippine militants refuse to go quietly

Have you heard the joke about the one-armed cock fighting fan who was mistaken by the president for an Islamic militant?

Actually, in the Philippines, it's no joke. Neither are the stories about the bizarre 'resurrections' on radio and television of alleged terrorists who are supposed to have been killed.

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17-02-2010

The Bog of War

After flying above snow-capped mountains and Taliban-held villages throughout the day, switching from army planes to military helicopters in the hope that we would finally, after days of broken promises, see some of the action in Afghanistan’s latest theatre of war, we touched down at Camp Shorabak, the Afghan Army’s base not far from the Helmand provincial capital of Lashkar Gah.

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Keeping up appearances in Afghanistan

The back door opens with a great pneumatic hiss, and US soldiers in full battle gear descend down three metal steps. Today will be a little different for the mud-walled village of Tag in the foothills of the Hindu Kush mountains. The army is coming for a chat.

Six massive armoured vehicles have inched their way up the valley along a narrow track.

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15-02-2010

On learning the art of 'managing' bad news

Ask anyone involved in public relations and they'll tell you that when a big story breaks, it's vital to take control of the news agenda.

Here in India that's rarely been the case, particularly in the public sector, with an absence of slick PR operations to keep a firm grip on who says what and when.

The 2008 Mumbai attacks, which I covered, were a case in point: the absence of any single point of contact for official information allowed rampant speculation to spiral out of control.

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12-02-2010

Crazy Philippine season kicks off

The three-month Philippine election season that has just got underway has a cast of characters fit for a farcical, dark comedy.

Among the headline actors is Imelda Marcos. Yes, at the age of 80, she is back, as unrepentant as ever about her husband's dictatorship that ended with a "people power" revolution in 1986.

Political pundits say she is a near certainty to win the lower house seat in the northern province of Iloces Norte that is being vacated by her son Ferdinand Marcos Jnr.

Ilocos Norte remains a stronghold of the Marcoses, and the apparent amnesia over the family's 20-year rule of the country has seen Junior become a strong tip to win a Senate seat in the May elections.

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Hanoi Diary: The magic of Tet

Hanoi is cramped, unbearably noisy, often grey, and dusty.

In the leadup to Tet, the Lunar New Year that begins on Sunday, it is even more congested and loud.

Yet, the excitement and colour surrounding Vietnam's most important annual festival has made Hanoi a more pleasant place. The delightful sight of pink peach blossom plants and bright orange kumquat trees -- a Tet tradition -- lifts one's spirits and makes the worsening traffic jams and blasting horns more tolerable.

Many people transport their plants on the back of motorcycles or bicycles. One large peach blossom was strapped to the roof of a car, the way people in North America bring their Christmas trees home.

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11-02-2010

Mandela Day

If the announcement by then president FW de Klerk on February 2, 1990  that Nelson Mandela was to be freed from prison left us reeling in disbelief, the actual event, when it happened on a white hot 'earth-stood-still' afternoon nine days later, sent tingles down our spines.

Here he was at last: the man reviled by the white apartheid authorities but adored by the overwhelming majority of South Africans, walking out of Victor Verster prison near Cape Town, hand-in-hand with his wife Winnie, changing the nation's destiny with every stride.

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10-02-2010

No surprise in Afghanistan campaign

Anyone familiar with Sun Tzu's "The Art of War" and his emphasis on the value of surprise in battle must be wondering what military planners were thinking when they decided to drop leaflets from helicopters to let the people of southern Afghanistan's poppy belt know they were coming.

But the Chinese general, who wrote his handbook on military strategy about 500 years before Christ, also knew the value of strength, morale and confidence when taking on the enemy.

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27-01-2010

Sleeping in fear of another earthquake

Hundreds of thousands of Haitians slept outside the piles of rubble that were once their homes for yet another night, while many journalists and aid workers slept outside damaged hotels as they reported from Port-au-Prince.

Dogs barked through the night, gunshots sometimes rang out and mosquitoes buzzed loudly around messy heaps of snoring bodies.

 

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22-01-2010

Man of the People

Barack Obama is a politician for the grand stage, the pulsating speech, the historic pronouncement.

He seems less at ease however on the flip side of campaign politics, the grass roots back slapping and hand shaking.

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14-01-2010

Haiti, upended

It took just seconds of bone-jarring, ground-shaking, concrete-rendering terror for Haiti to go from a forgotten and dirt-poor corner of the Caribbean to the only world headline that mattered.

The earthquake was so devastating, so clearly the worst thing that could happen to one of the worst-prepared nations on Earth, that even now, a day after the destruction, news organizations are unable to give the scope of the catastrophe.

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08-01-2010

Welcoming in 2010 in east Thailand's Wild West

New Year for me this year was pretty wild, but not in the conventional sense. To see in 2010 I abandoned my friends celebrating on one of Thailands famed beaches to watch the clock tick down to midnight in the kingdoms bizarre version of the Wild West.

Mention Thai culture and the usual images are of peoples hands pressed together in a welcoming wai, beautiful traditional silk costumes and plucked traditional Thai court music.

 

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04-01-2010

No R & R for Obama in Hawaii

You can imagine how colleagues reacted when told I was swapping Washington's bitter holiday season chill to cover President Barack Obama in Hawaii, from a hotel on a palm-tree fringed beach lapped by azure seas.

But there's a saying in American politics, that a president is never really on vacation: with Obama that cliche rings true.

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31-12-2009

Bloodsoaked banknotes stir Mexico drug war debate

Gruesome pictures of bloodstained banknotes spread across the half-naked, bullet-ridden body of top drug lord Arturo Beltran Leyva have raised controversy over Mexico's military crackdown on its drug gangs.

The pictures were a grim echo of battlefield trophies displayed by soldiers in wars around the world and left a blot on the government's proudest victory in its three-year crackdown on organised crime.

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